About Amritsar
Amritsar is the spiritual heart of Sikhism and one of Punjab's most welcoming cities. Pilgrims arrive at all hours, and the old town around the Harmandir Sahib stays busy with kirtan, bazaars and kitchens that never seem to close.
Most travellers need two or three days here. That is enough for the temple at dawn and after dark, the Partition story, a border trip and several very good meals.
The Golden Temple at different hours
The gilded sanctum stands in a sacred pool, reached by a single causeway. Come before sunrise for the procession of the holy book, then return at night when the marble is cool underfoot. The langar here serves free meals to tens of thousands of people every day, and everyone sits together on the floor.
History that is still close
Jallianwala Bagh keeps the memory of the 1919 massacre, with bullet marks preserved in its walls. The Partition Museum in Town Hall collects letters, objects and spoken memories from 1947. Both are moving and deserve an unhurried visit.
Wagah and the Amritsari table
The evening flag-lowering at the Attari-Wagah border is about 30 km from the city and draws loud, cheerful crowds. Back in town, try Amritsari kulcha, lassi in a steel glass and fried fish from the old lanes.
